Jul 2007

Dear All,

Having negotiated India and then the leeches we were certainly ready for some relaxing and stress-free holiday time (I know you were all beginning to feel sorry for us.) And boy did we find the place to do it!

We escaped from the jungle on a bus then reached our island via a very bumpy and slightly hairy hour long boat ride from the mainland. Having selected our accomodation from brief descriptions in the Lonely Planet we eagerly awaited arriving at our remote island retreat. We were not disappointed as we pulled up to a beach with clear blue waters, white sand, cold orange juice on arrival and a hut over-looking it all.

The view from our hut:

Desperate to get in the sea with changed into our swimming gear and waided our bright white bodies into the gently lapping warm water; heaven! The evening followed with simple malay food, Tiger beer and continuation of our Rummy card tournament (which I am winning 2-0).

The following morning after a substantial lie-in we headed round the coast to turtle beach (a 10 minute walk) for a sunbathe and snorkel. As you can see below it was picturesque and we were very pleased with our choice of location... More beer, food and cards followed that evening (now 3-0 to me!)

Keen to see some of the marine life we signed up to a snorkelling trip for the following morning. We were astounded at what we saw. First stop we saw a turtle, which was over a metre long, grazing on the sea floor; such a graceful creature despite its size and a first for both Simon and I. Then to some amazing coral with an array if sealife (too many to mention) via shark point (where we infact saw no sharks) and finally to 'the best snorkelling spot in Malaysia!' Surley not, it cant get any better we thought. But it did... We pulled up to a grim looking lighthouse and donned our snorkels and flippers into the sea again. Here we entered a Disney picture perfect under-water world. Coral, fish and colours like we only see in Finding Nemo. It was stunning; every shape, size and colour of fish were there in huge shoals. If only we had an underwater camera!

However 4 hours in the sun took its toll on us with both suffering with bad sunburn (me in particular as Simon was wearing a t-shirt; I was likened to a barbers pole). It was all too exciting to think of suncream in between the locations. So the following day we retreated to the shade, read books and discussed our next move. It was time to leave with lots of Malaysia still left to see.

To make the most of our last we day we went for one last snorkel the morning before our boat at 12 noon. We were in the sea by 7.30am and after an hour were disappointed with what we hadn't seen; we were in search for the friendly sharks everyone talked about. Near to calling it a day we spotted a black tipped tail of a shark; from there on in there was no stopping us! 3 sharks, 1 stingray, a family of Nemo's (AKA Clown fish), bright blue little ones, multicoloured big ones and millions of silver tiny ones. What a way to leave our island!

We were for once organised after our early start and had a relaxing half an hour in hammocks and on deck chairs before our boat arrived.

Reluctantly we waided our now red, white and slighty brown bodies onto the overfilled speedboat (capacity 12, actual 25; almost felt like we were in India again) to take us back to reality. We are now in Kota Bahru, an uninspiring town in North Malaysia ready to head to Penang tomorrow to a World Music Festival!

Bye for now, wish you could have been here...

Emma

Dear All,

Lessons to be learnt in the jungle:
1) "My that lightening looks pretty, it really brightens up the place."
"Shall we take our umbrella with us?"
"No I don't think we'll need it, its just a short boat trip and walk."
Followed by the most almighty of thunderstorms that left us wet and almost set the floating restaurant, that we fled to, adrift. We were also forced to buy emergency yellow ponchoes that made us look like two wet versions of big bird from Sesame street.
Lesson: always take waterproofs/umbrella to a rain forest.

2)"Is that a leech?"
"Yeah I think it is."
"Wow look at it move, its heading straight for you."
"It is the little critter, quick film it!"
Meanwhile the other leeches hanging out in the local vacinity:
"Is that a tourist?"
"Yeah there's two of them, there watching Larry."
"That stupid ginger one has got his camera out."
"Good old Larry he gets them every time!"
"To the legs boys, time for some leeching."
Followed by numerous leeches attaching themselves to our shoes and trousers. One almost attached itself to my head when Emma tried to flick it off my trousers but only succeeded in catapulting it off the elastic of my sock towards my head. Thankfully I headed it into the jungle.
Lesson: never stop to film a leech.

Our time in Taman Negara was a short but very enjoyable one. After our first night thunderstorm faux pas we rose from our jungle hut clad in beige and sparkly walking shoes (when in Rome?) ready for some trekking.

New Merrels

We took our hostel boat to the national park and set out on our trek to the canopy walkway; a 45 minute walkway set highup in the trees. Within our first 2 strides we began to sweat and this sweating theme continued unabated for the rest of the day, increasing and decreasing in its severity. When we read in the guide book that humidity was high in the rainforest we didnt think that much of it. However, after 5 minutes of gentle walking you realise in human terms that this means you're going to sweat like a fat lad at the Taj Mahal (We had seen a rather large gentleman at the Taj Mahal, who will remain nameless as we dont know his name, and he was exceptioinally sweaty. Thus he has come to symbolise extreme sweatiness). Thus we merrily sweated our way to the canopy walkway, we merrily sweated our way around half the canopy walkway, which was really good and pretty high, as half of it was, typically, closed for repairs.

The canopy walkway:

Then we decided to follow a trail to the top of a hill for a good view of the river and its rapids. This is when the sweating really kicked in. Thank goodness for eyebrows. When we finally reached the top of the hill we realised that the walk hadn't really been worthwhile but we felt healthy after a good sweat. A quick nibble on some dry biscuits and then we began our descent into the depths of leech hell.

Sweaty Bettys:

Luckily for us we had heeded the warnings of the locals who had told us that after heavy rains the leeches can be pretty bad. Thus we had socks tucked into long trousers and were wearing shoes. (Unlike some of the boob tube, miniskirted and flip flopped ladies we saw skipping around the jungle like some Chav amazons (Chavazons?) who we suspect are still in the jungle somewhere being sucked dry by leeches). Therefore, despite the leech onslaught (they move like slinkies with evil intent) following our filming we were able to flick them off with Em's leech stick and escape unsucked albeit with leech fear.

Land of the flying leeches:

Now leech fear is an interesting phenomenom for it makes people who walk slowly begin to walk exceptionally quickly. It also makes people who dont like hill walking charge up hills like they dont even exit. Emma is one of these people and with a good dose of leech fear I could hardly keep up to her. There were effectively scorch marks in Em's tracks as she blasted on the homeward path. We were only allowed to stop for breath for a quick leech inspection and then we were off again. Thus our walk took us about 2 hours for the first 2km and then 15 minutes for the second 2km.

However, such a revelation can be very useful to someone who has collected a sizeable collection of leeches for future usage. Thus the cat is out of the bag and when Em needs to be hurried up a leech may mysteriously appear by her shoe. "Is that a leech?" "Oh my god!!". Leech fear strikes and boom Em will be off like the clappers. Thus no more long drawn out trips to the shops, no standing idly looking longingly through the windows of jewellery shops, no more stopping for a quick chat....the possibilities are endless. They may also be constructive. Em and I are considering doing the Great North Run next year and with a good dose of leeches at the starting line I reckon she could get under 1:30. Great stuff.

Enough nonsense. We departed Tamen Negara on the Dutch bus surrounded by 15 Dutch people who chatted on in their bizarre langauge as we sped merrily towards the prospect of beaches.

Bye for now
Simon & Emma

Dear All,

Having arrived safe and sound in Kuala Lumpur. Albeit slightly frazzled as the previous entry may hint at. We spent a couple of days exploring its sights and sounds. As our first impressions had suggested it was a clean, modern and fairly quiet city when compared with Dehli. We merrily ventured around its street marvelling at the lack of people. the lack of hassle and the lack of filthiness. However, it soon became apparent that Kuala Lumpur lacked quite a lot and we began to worry that Malaysia was going to provide us with a sanitised travel experience. Dare I say it, after previous statements to the contrary, but we missed India. Come back street hawkers I'll buy your silly pipes, come back rickshaw dirvers I'll let you rip me off; just please take me back to India!! (A main point of interest regarding KL is getting around it. It took a while to grasp that its a very small city and that we were getting trains and taxis a very short and walkable distance. Thus we started to come round to the idea that maybe we should start walking. After all they were such short distances. Wrong!!. Walking in KL is not meant to occur and wishing to move from point A to point B can entail heading via point F, P and U whilst having to negotiate 6 lane highways, railway stations and rivers.)

The plot thinned as we decided to leave KL and head northward to the jungle. An organised bus tour would make life easier and indeed it did. However, we were forced to join the middle aged beige brigade complete with various zippy trousers that allowed them to transform a simple pair of beige trousers into various things: shorts, crap err sorry crop trousers, y-fronts, thongs, scrabble sets etc. Amazing things!

Beige brigade boat bonanza

Thus we bumbled along in complete comfort and with complete ease to catch our boat to the jungle of Taman Negara. Whilst awaiting our jungle transporter we sat on our rucksacks surrounded by various brands of spotless sandal and walking shoes, feeling as if we had mistakingly signed up for a ramble through the Yorkshire dales rather than a trip to the deadly jungle. Although we were both sitting on our sparkly new pairs of walking shoes. However, they were kept well hidden for fear of being tarred with the same beige brush. Although I'm sure we'll be there some day in the future clad in beige with a multitude of zips. It seems to be a natural progression. Although I pray to god that I wouldn't be there wearing matching sonic the hedgehog hats (have you still got those dad??).

Our boat arrived and with it a sense of interest in Malaysia. The 3 hour trip up the river to the heart of the jungle (geographically it may not have been the centre but for a sense of drama please assume that all jungle references refer to its centre, and maybe even complete darkness with a hint of fear) was really worthwhile and a very relaxing way to start our adventure....

Enjoying the River boat trip

Dyslexic forgers??

Freedom fighters concerned about where to buy your tickets? Your worries are at an end with India Rails all new service designed to take the travel hassles out of freedom fighting.

This one is for Mr. P Hawkins

The Hardest street in Mumbai (Courtesy of Mr W J Smerdon esq (the naked electrician))

Mumbai book seller (could have been you Becks; good job you're loving that database!)

Anyone for cricket?

Santa's Little Helper

Any ladies looking for a modern man? (Will takes a tea-break from cleaning)

Dear All,

After an overnight flight from Dehli, involving a couple of decent films but little or no sleep, we have finally escaped the clutches of India and become enveloped in the welcoming arms of Kuala Lumpur. Despite the post flight eye sting and general weariness I write this in a very happy mood indeed. First impressions of Malaysia are promising and our residence in the 'hectic' (guidebook description), tranquil (our post-India description) Chinatown area is cheap and cheerful with a cell like feel. It is clean though.

So we bid farewell to India with mixed emotions. Mine of utmost joy, Em's tinged with sadness.

India was a fascinating place to visit and we would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to have a unique travel experience. We saw some amazing sights, sites (especially the Taj Mahal) and sounds. Never a dull moment. However, for Em and I it was a country that you could love one day and hate with as much fervour the next. Perhaps you cant love all of India all of the time, you can just love some of India some of the time. Having said that we did visit some of the main tourist spots and probably experienced the worst touting and hassling. People who have visited the far South (Goa, Kerala etc) & North (Leh, Minali etc) talk very highly of them.

So Malaysian adventures begin after some much needed sleep. I only hope that I dont start having any post-India flashbacks in which the slow-calm Malaysian fan will turn into a noisy-I'm going to drop off this ceiling Indian fan, akin to Vietnam veterans seeing helicopter blades (you've seen the films!). Whereas Vietnam vets would see little people with strange hats attempting to shoot them I expect to see hawkers holding soap-stone elephants in elephants, pipes, books of post-cards, small bicycles fashioned from tin cans, leather whips, I love India t-shirts, strange sequened rugs and countless beads all being sold at a 'special good price for you my friend'. Its all coming flooding back.......am breaking into a cold sweat.

Need some sleep.
Love
Simon & Emma (who is fast asleep and will give me a good telling off for writing such nonsense. Tee hee wait until she see's my all new funny sign section!)